Research Dossier 02: Textured Hair, Inclusion, Cutting and Styling Techniques

Research date: September 17, 2026 Cluster: Textured hair, inclusion, cutting and styling techniques Scope: CROWN Act (federal, state, local, cases); state laws requiring textured-hair education in cosmetology programs and exams, and national exam (NIC) status; curl-typing systems and porosity testing; traction alopecia and CCCA (AAD and peer-reviewed guidance, no diagnosis); curly cutting methods and certification programs; silk press vs keratin/smoothing vs relaxer vs texture release, including thermal damage research and regulatory/litigation status; textured-hair market data; natural hair braiding licensing; barbering and cosmetology crossover. Method: WebSearch and WebFetch only. Several PubMed, Congress.gov, JAMA, BoF and state-legislature pages blocked automated fetching (403 / robots / CAPTCHA), and the session's web-search budget ran out before every thread could be finished. Where a primary source could not be opened, this is flagged and a secondary source is used instead, with its limits noted.

Key findings

1. Federal CROWN Act has not moved in the 119th Congress. H.R. 1638 (Rep. Bonnie Watson Coleman) and S. 751 (Sen. Cory Booker) were both introduced in February 2025. The House bill had 76 cosponsors, and its last recorded action is referral to the Judiciary and Education and Workforce committees on Feb. 26, 2025. The Economic Policy Institute reported on Aug. 6, 2026 that "neither bill has received a vote." The House passed earlier versions in 2020 (voice vote) and March 2022 (235–189), but the Senate never took them up. Confidence: High (GovInfo bill status XML; EPI, Aug 2026; Wikipedia summary of congressional record).
2. 30 states have some version of a CROWN law as of August 2026, plus Washington, D.C. EPI counts 27 full legislative laws, one executive order (Arizona) and two limited laws: Kentucky (2024, public service only) and Missouri (2025, education only). The newest full laws are Pennsylvania (HB 439, signed Nov. 25, 2025, effective Jan. 24, 2026) and Rhode Island (2025). The Official CROWN Act site also says "30 States Down, 20 To Go." Confidence: High for the count, Medium for how each limited law is characterized (EPI; thecrownact.com/about; Jackson Lewis).
3. Nine states now have laws or board mandates for textured-hair education. They are Louisiana (board action, 2021), New York (S6528, signed Nov. 2023, in effect Sept. 1, 2026), Minnesota (May 2024), Connecticut (PA 24-53, 2024), California (AB 2166, 2024), Washington, Vermont and Maine (2025), and New Jersey (P.L.2025, c.207, signed Jan. 12, 2026). Most of these laws also require the topic on licensing exams. We found no public evidence that the NIC national exam bulletins we could review have added textured-hair content. Confidence: High for LA/NY/MN/CA/WA/NJ, Medium for CT/VT/ME details, Low on NIC (absence of evidence) (NY DOS; Premium Beauty News; WRNJ).
4. Traction alopecia is common, and it can often be reversed if caught early. A 2018 review estimated it affects about one-third of women of African descent. In one South African school study, prevalence rose from 8.6% to 21.7% between the first and final school years. Risk is highest when tight braids, weaves or extensions are put on chemically relaxed hair. The AAD says pain means a style is too tight, and suggests wearing weaves or extensions "two or three months at most." CCCA is a different, scarring condition. It affects an estimated 2–7% of middle-aged women of African descent and needs early care from a dermatologist. Confidence: High (AAD hairstyles; Billero & Miteva 2018; Johns Hopkins 2016; StatPearls CCCA).
5. Chemical and heat straightening carry different risks, and federal rules have stalled. The FDA formaldehyde ban for hair smoothing products was announced in 2023 but has never been published as a proposed rule, and it missed a Dec. 31, 2025 target. The hair relaxer MDL 3060 (N.D. Ill.) had about 11,779 pending cases in August 2026, with no trials and no settlement. The NIH Sister Study found an association with uterine cancer, not proven causation. A 2025 thermal study found the hair cortex breaks down around 220–250 °C, and that chemically straightened hair starts decomposing about 25 °C earlier than untreated hair. Confidence: Medium-High (FDA; NIH; Lima et al. 2025).
6. Curl-typing charts are marketing shorthand, not science, and "porosity float tests" measure surface damage, not porosity. Stylist Andre Walker created the 1A–4C chart in the 1990s to sell a product line. L'Oréal researchers built an 8-type system from measurements of 1,442 people in 18 countries (2007). According to a chemistry PhD's analysis, the float and sink tests really reflect surface tension. Confidence: Medium-High (Wikipedia; PubMed 18078200; Lab Muffin, Jan 2026).
7. Braiding licensing: 38 states fully exempt natural hair braiders, according to the Institute for Justice (page updated Aug. 19, 2026). Ten states require a specialty license: IL, LA, MO, NJ, NY, NC, OK, OR, SC and TN. The Knee Regulatory Research Center counts licensing differently and reports 18 states plus D.C. with some natural-hair license. Confidence: Medium, because the two sources define terms differently (IJ; Knee Center, Mar 2026).
8. Curly cutting certifications are brand programs, not state licenses. Examples are the DevaCurl DevaCut (Level 1 and Level 2, each $799 full-day in-person; owned by Henkel), Ouidad Certification (2 days, licensed stylists only, prerequisite quiz) and Rëzo Academy (Levels 1–3). None of these is required by any state. Confidence: High for program structure as listed on brand sites (DevaCurl Pro; Ouidad Education; Rëzo Academy).

1. The CROWN Act

1.1 What it is

CROWN stands for "Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair." The laws add "traits historically associated with race," such as hair texture and protective hairstyles, to the legal definition of race in anti-discrimination law. Protective styles named in these laws include locs, braids, twists, coils, Bantu knots, afros and extensions. Pennsylvania's 2025 law uses this language (Jackson Lewis). Dove and the CROWN Coalition led the campaign starting in 2019. California passed the first state law that year.

1.2 Federal status (as of September 2026)

• 119th Congress: H.R. 1638, CROWN Act of 2025, was introduced Feb. 26, 2025 by Rep. Bonnie Watson Coleman (D-NJ-12) with 75 original cosponsors (76 total). It was referred to House Judiciary and Education and Workforce, and no later action is recorded (GovInfo). The Senate companion is S. 751 from Sen. Cory Booker (GovTrack S.751). EPI (Aug. 6, 2026): "Neither bill has received a vote."
• History: The House passed the bill by voice vote on Sept. 21, 2020, with no Senate vote. In the 117th Congress, a Feb. 28, 2022 House vote under suspension failed (235–188, short of two-thirds). The House then passed it 235–189 on March 18, 2022. In December 2022, Sen. Rand Paul blocked Senate action (Wikipedia, citing congressional record). The Official CROWN Act site lists 118th-Congress bills H.R. 8191 and S. 4224 (April and May 2024) (thecrownact.com/about). That same page says the House vote happened in "March 2023," which looks like an error, since the record shows March 2022.
• Related federal bill: The Texture Positive Act of 2025 was introduced by Rep. Nydia Velázquez on July 17, 2025. It would fund grants for partnerships that train cosmetology students on textured hair (Velázquez release). We could not verify any action on it after introduction.
• Assessment: We found nothing suggesting a federal CROWN Act will pass before the 119th Congress ends in January 2027. Confidence: Medium. This is an inference from no recorded action. It is not a forecast.

1.3 States (per EPI, Aug. 6, 2026)

Full legislative versions (27): Alaska (2022), Arkansas (2023), California (2019), Colorado (2020), Connecticut (2021), Delaware (2021), Illinois (2022), Louisiana (2022), Maine (2022), Maryland (2020), Massachusetts (2022), Michigan (2023), Minnesota (2023), Nebraska (2021), Nevada (2021), New Hampshire (2024), New Jersey (2019), New Mexico (2021), New York (2019), Oregon (2021), Pennsylvania (2025), Rhode Island (2025), Tennessee (2022), Texas (2023), Vermont (2024), Virginia (2020), Washington (2020). Executive order: Arizona (2023). Limited: Kentucky (2024; EPI says it covers public service only, while GovDocs describes it as an executive order), and Missouri (2025, education only). Missouri's law was signed by Gov. Mike Kehoe on July 9, 2025. It bars state-funded schools and colleges from restricting natural hairstyles "commonly associated with a particular race or origin," and still allows safety measures like hair nets (Missouri Independent). Plus Washington, D.C.

Details on recent laws:

• Pennsylvania: HB 439, signed Nov. 25, 2025, effective Jan. 24, 2026. It covers employment for employers with 4 or more employees and also protects religious head coverings (Jackson Lewis). (Pennsylvania's Human Relations Act also covers housing and public accommodations. We did not confirm whether HB 439 extends to those.)
• Rhode Island (2025): The General Assembly expanded the definition of race to include "traits historically associated with race, such as hair texture and protective hairstyles" (RI News Today session wrap-up). We could not open the bill number or effective date.
• A vendor source, GovDocs (updated July 2025), listed 27 states plus D.C. That list predates Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Missouri.

States with no statewide CROWN law (derived by subtraction from EPI's list, so verify before publishing a map): Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Mississippi, Montana, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, South Carolina, South Dakota, Utah, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming. (Kentucky and Missouri have only partial protections.) Confidence: Medium.

1.4 Local ordinances

EPI names Charlotte, NC; Columbus, OH; and Miami Beach, FL as having local CROWN laws. Pittsburgh and St. Louis passed ordinances years before their states acted. PBS NewsHour (July 2023) reported that Kansas City passed one unanimously in 2020 and St. Louis in 2021 (PBS). GovDocs says "more than 50 cities" have them. That figure comes from a compliance vendor and could not be independently counted. Confidence: Medium for named cities, Low for the count.

1.5 Workplace and school cases and evidence

• Barbers Hill ISD (Texas): Student Darryl George was suspended in 2023 over the length of his locs, and spent most of his junior year in in-school suspension. In February 2024, a Texas state judge ruled for the district, finding that the Texas CROWN Act did not bar hair-length rules. Texas lawmakers then said they would amend the law (Houston Public Media headline, Feb. 23, 2024, article body not fetchable). Separately, a federal judge dismissed most of George's claims in 2024 and dismissed the rest with prejudice on July 24, 2025 (KPRC Click2Houston; ABC13). We could not verify whether Texas amended its CROWN Act in 2025.
• Lesson for the site: State CROWN laws protect texture and protective styles. Courts may read length, grooming and "neatness" rules differently, and the exact wording of each law matters.
• Dove/LinkedIn CROWN 2023 Workplace Research Study (JOY Collective and Modulize for Dove; survey Dec. 2022–Jan. 2023; n=2,990 women ages 25–64, including 1,039 Black women): Black women's hair was 2.5 times as likely to be perceived as unprofessional. 66% of Black women change their hair for job interviews, and 41% go from curly to straight. More than 20% of Black women ages 25–34 had been sent home from work because of their hair. About 25% believe they were denied a job interview because of their hair (PR Newswire). Limitation: commissioned by a brand that runs the CROWN campaign. The data is self-reported.
• Dove CROWN Research Study for Girls (2021): 53% of Black mothers say their daughters experienced race-based hair discrimination as early as age 5. 66% of Black children in majority-white schools report such discrimination (Dove). Same limitation, and the methodology was not shown on that page.

2. Textured-hair education laws and exams

2.1 The gap

Industry groups and lawmakers describe cosmetology programs as historically training on straight hair. New York's Secretary of State said: "Traditional cosmetology courses historically ignored textured hair, leading salons to turn away clients or undertreat Black customers" (NY DOS, Sept. 1, 2026). Rep. Velázquez's 2025 release cites a 2020 study: 86% of Black women reported trouble finding consistent salon services, and 65% of stylists wanted more textured-hair training. The study itself was not located, so the figures are unverified. The PBA and its Texture Education Collective (founded by Aveda, DevaCurl, L'Oréal USA and Neill Corporation) often say "65% of Americans have textured hair." That is an advocacy figure, and its methodology was not found.

2.2 State-by-state (as of September 2026)

• Implementation concerns (NY): Many instructors were never trained in textured hair, the law does not apply to already-licensed stylists, and it is unclear whether schools have trained staff (TheGrio).
• Illinois: Named in the research brief, but we could not verify a textured-hair education mandate. Illinois has a separate hair braiding license. A beauty apprenticeship bill was waiting for the governor's signature in June 2026 (WSIU), and we did not verify the outcome.
• New Jersey final rule adoption: Not verified.

2.3 National exam (NIC)

The NIC National Cosmetology Practical Examination Candidate Information Bulletin (effective July 1, 2022) that we reviewed specifies full-size, "minikin" or "junior" mannequins. It does not mention hair texture or curl pattern (NIC CIB mirror). The NIC FAQ page shows no textured-hair update. We found no public evidence of an NIC textured-hair content change as of September 2026, but newer bulletins may be behind a login. States with mandates (LA, CA, MN, NJ) describe state-level exam content. Confidence: Low.

3. Curl typing and porosity

3.1 Andre Walker system

Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey's longtime stylist, created the system in the 1990s, originally to market his product line. It has Types 1 (straight), 2 (wavy), 3 (curly) and 4 (coily), each with A–C subtypes. Criticisms: it implies a hierarchy that favors looser textures, ignores density, strand width and scalp, and ignores the fact that one head often has several patterns (Wikipedia). Some dermatology literature (International Journal of Women's Dermatology) finds it useful for describing hair in clinical settings.

3.2 Measurement-based alternative

De la Mettrie et al., L'Oréal Recherche, Human Biology (2007): 1,442 people from 18 countries. The study measured curve diameter, curl index and number of waves and produced 8 shape-based types that do not rely on ethnic categories (PubMed 18078200). Limitation: industry-funded, and designed for cosmetic and forensic use.

3.3 Mintel on shifting self-identified types

Mintel's July 16, 2026 report "US Black Haircare to Textured Haircare: Expanding the Lens" says that among Black consumers, self-reported Type 4 fell below 50% while Type 1/2 rose between 2020 and 2026. It also notes that textured hair exists across racial and ethnic groups (Mintel store summary). Limitation: paywalled ($4,995), so only the public summary was read. These are self-reported types.

3.4 Porosity float test

Chemist Michelle Wong (PhD), writing on Jan. 28, 2026, explains that the float and sink tests reflect surface tension. Undamaged hair has a hydrophobic lipid layer (the F-layer, 18-MEA) and tends to float. Damaged hair wets more easily and sinks. That is a sign of surface damage, not how much water hair absorbs. Undamaged hair takes up roughly 30% of its weight in water, and damaged hair about 45% (citing Robbins). She advises stylists not to use these tests to set chemical processing times (Lab Muffin). Confidence: Medium-High. This is a science-communicator source that cites the literature. It is not a peer-reviewed study itself.

4. Traction alopecia, CCCA and protective styles (no diagnosis)

4.1 AAD guidance

From "Hairstyles that pull can lead to hair loss," last updated Nov. 6, 2024 (AAD):

• Styles that can cause traction alopecia: tight cornrows, braids and locs; tightly pulled buns, ponytails and updos; extensions and weaves (especially on relaxed hair); rollers worn nightly; tight head coverings.
• Tips: Loosen braids around the hairline. Choose thicker braids or locs. Prefer sewn-in over glued weaves, and make sure the cornrow base isn't tight. Rotate styles. Check your hairline regularly.
• Stop-signs: pain, stinging, crusting, "tenting" (skin pulled up around the hair), broken hairs around the forehead, a receding hairline. "If your hairstyle feels painful, the style is too tight."
• Weaves and extensions (AAD, undated): start with healthy hair, tell your stylist about pain or headaches, remove clip-ins before washing, protect edges, and wear extensions "two or three months at most" before taking a break.

4.2 Evidence

• Billero & Miteva, Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol (2018): TA affects about one-third of women of African descent. Among South African schoolgirls, prevalence rose from 8.6% (first year) to 21.7% (final year). Most early cases are reversible, but continued traction leads to scarring and permanent loss. The "fringe sign" (a strip of retained hair at the hairline) helps clinicians tell TA apart from other conditions (DovePress).
• Haskin & Aguh, JAAD (2016, Johns Hopkins): braids, locs, weaves and extensions carry the highest risk, especially on chemically relaxed hair. Loose styles and hair without chemicals are lower risk. Suggestions include loosening braids every 2–3 months and removing weaves or extensions after 6–8 weeks. Aguh noted that simply telling patients to abandon helpful styles "won't work for everyone" (ScienceDaily/Johns Hopkins release; PubMed 27114262). Limitation: a narrative review. The full abstract was not fetched because of a CAPTCHA.
• The AAD and the Johns Hopkins recommendations give slightly different timelines. Content should present both as general guidance and send readers to a dermatologist.

4.3 CCCA

• AAD: a scarring hair loss seen most often in Black women but found in all groups. It usually starts in middle age at the crown as a small round patch that grows, sometimes with bumps, burning or itching. Scarred follicles cannot regrow hair, so early prescription treatment matters. OTC products are not effective (AAD CCCA).
• StatPearls (updated Mar. 13, 2024): affects about 2–7% of middle-aged women of African descent, with mean onset at 36. Relaxers, hot combs and tight styles were once blamed, but the condition occurs in women who don't use them. The cause is thought to be multifactorial, including genetics (PADI3 variant, NEJM 2019) (StatPearls). The NEJM page was not fetchable (403).
• Content rule: Stylists can notice changes and refer clients. They should not diagnose.

5. Curly cutting methods and certifications

• No independent studies were found comparing outcomes of these methods. Choosing between them is a matter of preference and the stylist's skill. Confidence: Medium (based on not finding any).
• DevaCurl context: A consolidated class action alleging scalp irritation and hair loss (In re Deva Concepts Products Liability Litigation, S.D.N.Y.) settled for $5.2 million with no admission of liability. Final approval came in January 2022 (Bloomberg Law). This concerned products, not the cutting method. Any mention should not suggest the claims were proven.
• Tension-free cutting on dry hair is the shared idea behind DevaCut and Rëzo: curls shrink unevenly when they dry, so cutting dry shows where each curl sits. Wet-cut methods like Ouidad account for shrinkage through technique. Specialist Christin Brown says both work when stylist and client are satisfied (Beauty Launchpad).

6. Silk press vs keratin/smoothing vs relaxer vs texture release

6.1 Definitions (general, textbook-level)

• Silk press: Hair is washed, deep conditioned and blow-dried, then flat-ironed in small sections with no chemical straightener. The straightness goes back to the natural pattern when hair gets wet or humid. The risk is heat damage: too much heat, too many passes, or pressing too often can permanently loosen curls.
• Keratin/smoothing treatments: Solutions are flat-ironed into the hair to reduce frizz and loosen curl for weeks to months. Some contain formaldehyde or formaldehyde releasers (formalin, methylene glycol) that release formaldehyde gas when heated (FDA, updated Oct. 15, 2024). Some "formaldehyde-free" products use glyoxylic acid (acid straightening). A 2025 study found acid-straightened hair less heat-stable (see 6.3).
• Relaxers: Alkaline chemicals permanently break and rearrange the hair's structure. "Lye" types use sodium hydroxide, and "no-lye" types typically use guanidine or calcium hydroxide. The change is permanent, so new growth needs retouching. Scalp burns are a known hazard. Confidence: Medium. This is standard cosmetology chemistry, but we could not fetch the FDA relaxer page due to rate limiting.
• Texture release / "texturizer": A salon term with no fixed definition. It usually means a relaxer-type or thio-type chemical applied for a shorter time or at lower strength to loosen curls rather than straighten fully. Chemically it is still permanent processing. Confidence: Low-Medium. No authoritative definition was found, so consumers should ask for the product name and Safety Data Sheet.

6.2 Safety, regulation and litigation status

• FDA formaldehyde ban: Listed on the Unified Agenda in spring 2023 (RIN 0910-AI83). Target dates of Oct. 2023, April 2024, Nov. 2024, March 2025, July 2025 and Dec. 31, 2025 all passed without a proposed rule being published. As of August 2026, no ban is in effect (Marin Murphy law firm tracker, Aug. 2026; CNN headline, Jan. 5, 2026; reginfo.gov). Limitation: the main detailed source is a plaintiffs' law-firm page, and CNN's body text was not fetchable.
• OSHA: Issued a hazard alert for salon workers on formaldehyde in smoothing products (updated Sept. 22, 2011) (DOL; OSHA hair salons).
• NIH Sister Study (JNCI, Oct. 17, 2022): 33,497 women followed for about 11 years, with 378 uterine cancers. Frequent use of straighteners (more than 4 times a year) was associated with about twice the risk. Estimated cumulative risk by age 70 was 4.05% for frequent users vs 1.64% for never-users. No brand or ingredient data was collected, and the authors called for more research (NIH). This is an association, not proof of causation.
• MDL 3060 (In re Hair Relaxer Marketing, Sales Practices and Products Liability Litigation, N.D. Ill., Judge Mary M. Rowland): about 11,779 pending cases as of Aug. 3, 2026. Ten bellwether cases were selected April 2, 2026, and expert discovery runs through Nov. 16, 2026. Summary judgment and expert (Rule 702) motions are due Dec. 16, 2026. No trials are set and no settlement has been announced (Marin Murphy, Sept. 2026 update). Limitation: a law-firm source. Check against the JPML pending-MDL report before publishing. Allegations are unproven.

6.3 Thermal damage research

• Lima et al., Biopolymers (2025): the hair cortex degrades significantly between 220 and 250 °C ("melts and evaporates above 230 °C"), while the cuticle holds up above 250 °C. Water evaporates from 30–150 °C. Acid-straightened hair began decomposing about 25 °C lower than untreated hair, and bleaching plus acid straightening did the most damage, with increased porosity (PMC12701549). Limitation: lab thermal analysis, not real-world flat-iron use. Sample origin not reviewed.
• Other relevant studies were identified but their abstracts could not be read (PubMed CAPTCHA and rate limits): Ruetsch & Kamath, J Cosmet Sci 2004, "Effects of thermal treatments with a curling iron on hair fiber" (PubMed 15037918); Zhou et al. 2011 on flat-ironing pretreatments (PubMed 21635854); Lima et al. 2019, "Heat-damaged evaluation of virgin hair" (PubMed 30861299); Shaw et al. 2025, a tensile-based heat damage scale (Int J Cosmet Sci). Specific temperature thresholds from these studies are not quoted, because they could not be verified.
• Practical takeaway (Medium confidence): Heat damage builds with temperature, time and repeated passes. Hair that has been relaxed, bleached or acid-straightened tolerates less heat. Many consumer flat irons reach 200–230 °C (about 390–450 °F), which overlaps the range where the cortex breaks down in lab tests.

7. Textured-hair market data

• Mintel (July 2026, paywalled): household spending on shampoo and conditioner stalled from 2019–2025. Black women use protective styles, wigs and extensions year-round. Scalp-first formulas are an opportunity (Mintel summary). A 2025 Mintel report, "US Textured Haircare and Hair Styles," also exists (Mintel).
• The Velázquez release says the textured-hair industry is "approximately $2.5 billion." The underlying source was not cited on the page.
• No public Nielsen/NielsenIQ textured-hair figures were verified. Use market figures only with attribution and "estimate" labels.

8. Braiding licensing and deregulation

• Institute for Justice (page modified Aug. 19, 2026): 38 states completely exempt natural hair braiders from cosmetology licensing. 10 require a specialty braiding license: Illinois, Louisiana, Missouri, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, Tennessee. Specialty-license training "can range from several dozen to several hundred" hours (IJ). IJ's braiding issue page says 24 states required a full cosmetology or barber license for braiding when its initiative launched in 2014. It lists Wyoming (signed Feb. 28, 2025) as a recent reform (IJ braiding). Limitation: IJ is an advocacy law firm for deregulation. 38 + 10 = 48, and the status of the remaining two states and D.C. was not stated on the page.
• Pennsylvania exempted braiders in October 2024 (NBC Philadelphia called it the "34th state"). It passed unanimously in the House and 49–1 in the Senate (NBC10).
• Knee Regulatory Research Center (WVU), Mar. 6, 2026: in its 2025 database, natural hair braiders are licensed in 18 states plus D.C. Requirements range from zero experience (Iowa, Oregon) to about 1,800 hours (Hawaii). Initial fees run from $0 (Iowa, Ohio) to $420 (Alaska). Only Iowa, Missouri and Illinois waive exams (Knee Center). Limitation: counts differ from IJ, likely because Knee includes registrations and natural-hair-stylist licenses. Publish ranges with both sources, not a single number.

9. Barbering and cosmetology crossover for textured hair

• California's AB 2166 applies to barbering as well as cosmetology and hairstyling programs. Washington's 2026 rules apply to barbering and hair design (AHP; ASCP).
• New York also has a separate 300-hour Natural Hair Styling license that is now covered by the textured-hair mandate (TheGrio).
• Not verified: national data on how many barbers vs cosmetologists serve textured-hair clients, or scope-of-practice limits in each state (for example, whether barbers may do chemical relaxing or braiding). Further research is needed.

Open questions / not verified

1. Whether Texas amended its CROWN Act after the Barbers Hill ruling (2025 session).
2. Rhode Island CROWN bill number and effective date. Kentucky's legal mechanism (executive order vs statute).
3. Exact number and list of local CROWN ordinances.
4. Connecticut, Vermont and Maine bill numbers and effective dates for textured-hair education. Whether New Jersey adopted its final rules. Whether Illinois has any textured-hair education requirement.
5. Any NIC exam content changes behind login-restricted bulletins.
6. Abstracts and temperature thresholds of the 2004, 2011, 2019 and 2025 heat-damage studies (blocked).
7. Primary sources for "65% of Americans have textured hair," "$2.5 billion" and the "86% / 65%" 2020 study.
8. Public Nielsen textured-hair sales data.
9. MDL 3060 counts from the JPML directly. The FDA formaldehyde rule's current Unified Agenda date (Spring 2026 agenda).
10. How IJ and Knee Center define braider licensing, and the status of the two states IJ doesn't classify.
11. Current Texture Positive Act status.

Source list